The Monsopiad Heritage, Cultural Village

The Monsopiad Heritage, Cultural Village…
Commemorating the life of a Borneo Warrior and headhunter, the Cultural Village is located in the village of Kuai on the banks of the Penampang River. The story of Monsopiad began a long time ago.
Life in the village was not always peaceful. Pirates and plunderers disturbed the peace of Kampung (Kg.) Kuai and the surrounding villages. Unable to bear it any longer, a young man of the village decided to avenge and end the ruthless attacks. He is none other than Monsopiad, the grandson of the village headman. He gathered all the youths of Kg. Kuai and prepared to defend the village. Monsopiad succeeded and thus became well known as the best and most fearsome warrior ever.
He had, in his entire lifetime, 42 trophy-heads to his name. Today, you too can relive the adventures of Monsopiad with a guided tour around his village area. It is still resided by families who are direct descendants of the warrior. The stories are so well told that you can almost see and feel the presence of these once glorious warriors.
Then we have the Siou do Mohoing (House of Skulls), which refers to the 42 trophy skulls. They are housed in the ancestral house that is situated on a small knoll overlooking the village area and the Penampang River. The Keeper of the Skulls, Mamai Dousia Moujing, and his family had lived in the ancestral home with the Skulls until 1996. With the consent of the Siou do Mohoing, the family now stays next door. Consent was also obtained for non-family members to visit Siou do Mohoing. It is believed that the Spirits of the Skulls exists and are still living. True to the belief, dried hisad palm leaves are strung and woven around the trophy skulls to ward off evil spirits and to protect the family and visitors.
There are also several traditional farmhouses in the village. The quaint buildings have staircases made out of round logs with steps cut into them. The walls are made of nibung (a type of tree) and the roofs, attap. Padi is stored in the tangkob, a huge granary, after the harvest season. These further emphasizes the importance and respect the Kadazandusun have on padi and the belief that all things originate from this rice grain.
We also have the Gintutun do mohoing, a stone monolith that was erected a long time ago and which acts as a silent witness to the many legends of Monsopiad. Many believe that spirits from the past live within this structure. Today, many people visit the stone for luck. Located beside it are the bangkaha or tall bamboo poles that are split at the top-ends to hold and dry the trophy heads brought home by Monsopiad and his warriors.
The Kotos di Monsopiad is a reconstruction of the main house of Monsopiad. This is an opportunity for visitors to gain an insight into the life and times of the Warrior and his descendants. Gusi (ceramic jars), guguzangan (padi grinders), ugut (bamboo water containers), dopuan (the kitchen), and totozidan (a baby’s hanging cradle) all indicate a time not too long ago when spirits were called upon to guide one’s every move and action.
To “communicate” with the spirits, we have the Bobohizan or high priestess who is a highly respected person in the Kadazandusun village community. She is the medium of direct communication with all spirits.
The Monsopiad Cultural Village of today is built on the original site of the ancestral longhouse, where the Headman held audience with the villagers and visitors. It was the venue of many celebrations and festivities and thus most apt to house the Restaurant. The latter serves a fine selection of traditional local dishes, including the must-have famous Kadazandusun favorite, the mouth-watering hinava, which is very fresh, sliced raw fish marinated in fresh lime juice and mixed with finely sliced chili padi, ginger, bitter gourd, and shallots. They also serve Pinasakan sada’h (fish stewed-dry in herbs and dried fruit takob-akob), manuk om lihing (chicken with homemade rice wine), soko (bamboo shoots), lomiding (local ferns), and many more exotic dishes. Visitors could also make advance orders for hill rice to be served in addition to the village rice. You may also order the Vinaigan, a special glutinous rice dessert, which is actually served on special occasions, celebrations and festivities, such as a child’s coming of age, a welcome home celebration, a going-away blessing ritual, anniversaries, birthdays, and weddings.
The Village is always full of activities as it celebrates festivals and events including the annual Pesta Kaamatan, as well as Kadazan weddings, rituals and ceremonies.
Some Do’s and Don’tsAll visitors are welcomed to the Monsopiad Cultural Village. However, visitors are reminded to respect and adhere to local customs. When in need for more information, refer to your Guide or the Keeper of the Skulls and his family. Here are some do’s and don’ts:
When entering any house, visitors are requested:
To remove their footwear and to leave them outside on the porch
To always tread lightly and “wind” your way around other people in all houses, including the Restaurant. It is disrespectful to walk OVER a person, man, woman, child or any objects.
Do not intrude the Bobohizan, any rituals, or ceremonies in progress.
Not to touch, laugh at, shout, and make disrespectful remarks or gestures to the following:
Siou do Mohoing
Bobohizan sigar (headgear), paraphernalia of instruments,
The Keeper’s Sword

Pulau Sipadan

Acknowledged as one of the best diving and unique spots in Southeast Asia, Pulau Sipadan is located off the small coastal town of Semporna on Sabah's eastern coast. Just 15 feet from the beach, the water turns indigo blue as the sea drops abruptly to 2,850ft deep!

Madai Caves

Like the more popular Gomantong Caves to the north, these limestone caves are also famous for their birds' nests. At the entrance of the cave, there is a sprawling "kampung" (village) of empty wooden shanties. When the birds start nesting, these become the nest collectors' temporary homes. A small river runs through the caves and emerges at the entrance. A torch is necessary to explore the caves and a guide is also needed if visitors wish to explore the inner-depths of the caves. It is possible to walk through the caves but there are many obstacles involved, such as wading through the river, which can reach the thigh at certain places. Furthermore, the exit is reached by clambering over slippery rocks. It is much easier to take the trail outside. Apart from the caves, Madai also offers a large Air Terjun Madai (Madai Waterfalls) and the small Hutan Rekreasi Madai (Madai Recreational Forest). The forest reserve is situated around the falls with picnic facilities and food stalls. Opposite the falls is the Kletus Muyuk Trail, which is a 45km walking trail that leads back to the caves and further inland to the Madai-Baturong Forest Reserve.

Danum Valley Conservation Area

At Danum Valley, it is possible to see a 60-million-year-old rainforest, which has a semi-government natural tourism setup that provides proper accommodation, food, and trained naturalists who give professional interpretations of the forest. Danum supports an incredible diversity of wildlife. The focus here is the huge spectrum of plant-life and their complex ecosystem, which also supports a very interesting array of rare fauna. Other observations include 275 bird species, and 110 species of mammals, including great rarities such as the Sumatran rhino and the beautiful clouded leopard. It is indeed a rare privilege to stand under towering canopies of ancient trees and see some of Sabah's superb wildlife.

Lahad Datu

This town is a very interesting place. It is very close to the Philippines and as a result of that it has become home to many immigrants. Lahad Datu is the starting point to the famous Danum Valley.

Sepilok Orang Utan Sanctuary in Sandakan

The Sepilok Orang Utan Rehabilitation Centre is a place where people can go to see orang-utans (Pongo pygmaeus) - the wild red apes of Borneo and Sumatra - in their natural habitat, the tropical rainforest. It is important to understand, however, that the purpose of the Centre is to train young orang-utans, which for one reason or another have been held in captivity, so that they may learn to live unaided in the forest. Viewed in a historical context, the story is more complicated and more interesting.
Sepilok is an old Forest Reserve, about 43 square kilometres in area, which before the introduction of heavy machinery was logged by hand for timber. In 1957, logging was banned and the Reserve was desinated for research and conservation. When Sabah became an independent state in Malaysia in 1963, a Game Branch was created in the Forest Department for the conservation of wild animals. At that time, it was believed that the orang-utan was a very rare species, endangered with extinction. Up to that time, young orang-utan had been a popular pet amongst people in Sabah and elsewhere, and any young one caught during logging or forest clearance was in wide demand. With the new Game Branch came a new law which prohibited anyone from catching or keeping an orang-utan.
Many orang-utans which had been kept in captivity were confiscated - but something had to be done with them. Sepilok was chosen as the place where these orang-utans would be brought and trained to live a natural life in the forest. The rehabilitation process, as it became known, met and continues to meet varying degrees of success. Some orang-utans disappeared, some died, some grew to live a semi-natural existence... and some were successfully rehabilitated to survive unaided in the forest. Indeed, some have mated with wild orang-utans and produced babies. One such baby - Juliana, born in 1976 - herself gave birth in Sepilok in 1987.
Since the early days, it has become apparent that while orang-utans are rare, they are not endangered at present. It is now known that conservation of large areas of natural habitat is a surer way to conserve orang-utans than the rehabilitation programme at Sepilok. But orang-utans continue to come into Sepilok, nowadays not from captivity, but directly from areas where forest is being cleared for agriculture. Sepilok serves to give these unfortunate animals life in the forest rather than an uncertain future in a plantation. And, perhaps most importantly, Sepilok serves as a link between people and Sabah's marvellous wildlife, where the young can gain their first insights into nature and the importance of caring for the natural environment.
An even rarer creature of the Borneo rainforests than the orang-utan can be seen at Sepilok - the Asian two-horned rhinoceros (Dicerorhinus sumatrensis), often known as the Sumatran rhino. This splendid animal was once widespread throughout South-east Asia. Indeed, during the first three decades of the development of Sandakan by the British Chartered Company, rhinos would often wander into the town and outlaying gardens. Early issues of the British North Borneo Herald mention visitors going off into the forests of the Sandakan hinterland to hunt rhinos, and there are advertisements giving the cost of rhino horn in local Chinese shops. Since those days, the Asian two-horned rhino has been reduced by excessive hunting as well as loss of forest to scattered remnants in Borneo, Sumatra and Peninsular Malaysia. A number of National Parks and Reserves have been established in all three regions in efforts to conserve the rhinoceros in the wild. Unfortunately, the horn of this rhino is worth more than its weight in gold in Chinese apothecaries, for it is believed by Asians of Chinese descent to be the most effective medicine to reduce fevers.
Worries over continued illegal hunting, as well as the risk of natural calamities or disease, have led the relevant governments to join forces with conservationists and zoos. The aim is to build up a captive population, as a precaution against the possibility that the wild populations may go extinct. For the time being, the Sabah government's contribution to this effort is being developed at Sepilok. Finally, Sepilok is an excellent opportunity to take a walk in the Borneo rainforest without the need to organise a major expedition. Look out for the diversity of trees, climbing plants, ferns and other plants, as well as birds and insects. Do not be disappointed when hordes of colourful wild birds and mammals fail to make a showing. The beauty of rainforest lies in its plants, in its sheer intricacy and complexity, and in its shapes, sounds and subtle relationships.

Sukau & Kinabatangan River

The Sungai Kinabatangan is the longest river in Sabah, measuring 560 km from its headwaters in the southwest side of the state to where it merges with the Sulu Sea, east of Sandakan. This is one of the best places to observe wildlife. Furthermore, the river promises excitement all year round. Here, visitors can find a great concentration of wildlife in Malaysia, perhaps the best in all of Borneo. Wild orang utan, macaques, red and silver leaf monkeys, elephants, dozens of beautiful birds including several species of hornbill, crocodiles, civet cats and otters may all be viewed in this region.
The most famous creature of all is undoubtedly the bizarre Proboscis monkey. Found only in Borneo, the Proboscis monkeys are very easy to spot, thanks to their habit of socializing in the mangrove trees along the riverbanks during late afternoons. The male Proboscis monkey has a large pendulous nose, fat belly, thick white tail, and a peculiar mixture of colors that make him look as if he is wearing gray tights, white underpants and an orange jacket!
There are also many dramatic and beautiful birds at the Kinabatangan region. Amongst them are the elegant Egrets, several species of Kingfisher, the Oriental darter or snake bird which dives underwater to catch its prey, swift and vividly colored Bee-eaters, and Hornbills, which are huge ungainly birds with heavy wings.
Tourists may be able to see the place in half a day by taking an afternoon boat tour across the Sandakan Bay. From there, move through the salt-water swamp forest into the mouth of the Kinabatangan River and then on to the first settlement, Kampung Abai, before returning to Sandakan at night. If that is not enough, visitors can get an in-depth look at the area's wildlife by staying overnight at Sukau, which is located two hours by road from Sandakan. Local tour operators will provide accommodations. It is advisable to visit the place with a tour operator as the journey to Sukau lacks the convenience of the public transport. The tour would include a two-hour 'trek' in the late afternoon through a fresh-water swamp forest in the comfort of a boat.

Gamantong Caves

These limestone caves are Sabah's most famous source of swiftlets' nests used for Chinese panacea, bird's-nest soup. The caves are on the opposite side of the bay from Sandakan. They have two cave complexes, the main and more accessible Simud Hitam (Black Cave) and Simud Putih (White Cave), which is higher in the mountain. Simud Hitam contains black nests whereas Simud Putih contains the more valuable white nests. Both trails are steep and involve some rock climbing. The area around the caves is covered in forest and dense vegetation.

Libaran Island

Drive 2 1/2 hours to the town of Sandakan before taking an hour boat ride to Libaran Island. Enjoy the tropical shoreline vegetation as you travel North East from Sandakan to the Sulu Sea. The coast line is covered with dense mangrove vegetation with numerous species of wildlife. A boat trip to the mangrove in the afternoon will be rewarded with sighting of squirrels, monkeys, bearded pigs, pangolins, sea eagles, hornbills, green herons, sandpipers, pigeons, bulbuls, bablers, flycatchers, swiftlets and sunbirds. Megapode, a chicken-like bird which lays its eggs in mound of sand at the edge of the beach may be sighted on a small island just off Libaran Island

Turtle Islands Park

Also known as Pulau Penyu National Park, this park comprises of three small islands: Pulau Selingan, Pulau Bakungan Kecil, and Pulau Gulisan. They are covered with a variety of plant life. However, the main attractions are the turtles, which come ashore to nest. Pulau Selingan and Pulau Bakungan Kecil is the main nesting area for the green turtles, while the hawksbill turtles seem particularly fond of Pulau Gulisan. Both species lay their eggs on these shores throughout the year although the best months are between July to October. The islands were categorized as Marine Parks primarily to save these two species from extinction.

Sandakan

The town of Sandakan is a thriving commercial center at the entrance to a beautiful island-studded bay. It lies on a narrow strip of land between steep hills and the waters of the Sulu Sea. At the height of the timber boom, Sandakan was said to have the world's greatest concentration of millionaires. The region has always been renowned for luxury goods, such as pearls, sea cucumbers, edible birds' nests, and bees' wax, thus attracting traders from the nearby Sulu Sultanate, as well as China. However, Sandakan bears little evidence of its early history as a result of bombing during the war.
Sandakan's oldest temple is called Puu Jih Shih. Built in the 1880s, it is a large Buddhist temple that is perched on a steep hill overlooking the town, thus offering an unrivaled panoramic view of Sandakan Bay. The temple is a blaze of red and gold with writhing dragons, gilded Buddhas, hundreds of lamps, and the fragrance of burning incense.
The Muslim community is served by the simple Sandakan Mosque, which was built on the edges of the bay next to Kampung Buli Sim Sim. The kampung (village) is perched on stilts above the sea. Flowery sarong and fishing nets are hung up to dry and wooden boats bob at the 'front door'. Visitors are allowed to wander along the walkways to get a glimpse of their lifestyles.
Traces of the town's colonial past can be seen in the quaint stone church, St Michael's & All Angel's Church, which was built in the 19th Century. Another link to the past can be found in Agnes Keith's House, an old two story wooden villa. Keith was an American who came to Sandakan in the 1930s with her husband, who was the Conservator of Forests. Her book entitled "Land Below the Wind" was based on her life in prewar Sandakan.
The Australian War Memorial is situated in a quiet, wooded park. This was the site of the Japanese prisoner of war camp and the starting point of the infamous 'death marches' to Ranau, which is near Mount Kinabalu. It is a fascinating yet frightful place, and the place has a melancholy if not eerie air despite the tropical heat.
The Central Market is a must-see for all visitors to Sandakan. You will find a fascinating mixture of people as they bargain for tropical fruits and vegetables, sarongs and seashells, spices and sticky rice cakes. Also, Sabah's largest fish market offers a wide array of seafood.
For a look at the past and present in the forestry industry of Sabah, it is worth making the trip to the Forest Headquarters (Ibu Pejabat Jabatan Perhutanan) in Labuk Road, which is next to the Sandakan Golf Course. The Exhibit Center is a mini-museum that is interesting and well laid out. It presents Borneo's famous ironwood (belian), which is renowned for its durability. Although taken from the pilings off the jetty of Sandakan after 50 years in sea, the wood bears no trace of woodworm or any other type of wear or tear.
Another not to be missed attraction would be Sabah's only licensed crocodile breeder. The original stock came from wild crocodiles found around the Kinabatangan River. This Crocodile Farm in Labuk Road is open to the public and features up to 2,000 creatures in all stages of development in cement pools. Their precious skins are exported and the meat sold to local gourmets.
On a lighter note, visitors can find some peace by walking around the busy waterfront and watching fishing boats, barges, and ferries around the wharves. Also, the market is always bustling with activity and one can find interesting things to buy or see.

Pulau Tiga National Park (Three Islands)

The name Pulau Tiga comprises of three islands: Pulau Tiga, Pulau Kalampunian Besar, and Pulau Kalampunian Damit. Pulau Tiga is the largest island, which was formed by the eruption of mud volcanoes. It is covered by dense vegetation but volcanic activity in the form of bubbling mud and escaping methane gas can still be seen at the summit of the island. There are walking trails, beautiful sandy beaches, and good snorkeling around the island. Pulau Kalampunian Damit is famous for the sea snakes that come ashore to mate. Some of these snakes are never even seen on nearby Pulau Tiga. Locals call this island Pulau Ular (Snake Island). A 7km coral reef around the islands is home to various species of hard corals and the brightly colorful marine life.

Mount Trus Madi

Situated near Tambunan, Trus Madi is Sabah's second highest peak (2,642m). Logging concessions surrounds it and the upper slopes and peak are wild and jungle-clad. Currently, there are plans to turn the mountain into a wilderness reserve. Independent trekkers must be well equipped and take all the food and water up the mountain. It is advisable to get a guide or at least get maps and assistance from the Forestry Department. With good maps or a guide, it is possible to go by a 4WD up to about 1500m, from where it is a five to seven hour climb to the top of the mountain.

Padas Gorge and The Beaufort Train

The train which runs between Beaufort and Tenom is the last remaining train in Sabah. The trip passes across the scenic Padas Gorge. The spectacular view of the swift flowing river flanked by high hills and mountains makes the journey an interesting one. The rail often disappears into the jungle growth, and the view from the window often has you wondering just where the track might be heading. The journey also passes tropical rainforest, rubber estates and villages along the Padas River. The Tenom Pangi Hydroelectric project is also a very impressive sight from the train. The Padas River is also the site of white-water rafting adventures which shoot through rapids up to Grade 4

Poring Hot Spring

Poring Hot Springs is one of the best places to visit after a climb of Mt Kinabalu, or after a trip into the Sabah jungles. The steaming sulphuric water is an excellent tonic for tired limbs. Between hot and cold baths, you can trek through the dipterocarp forests of Poring which are rich in fruit trees, kanas and rotan palms. The baths were originally built during the Japanese occupation and set in a lush green setting. It is called "Poring" because it is named after a species of bamboo abundant here.
Experience too, the canopy walkway (not for the faint hearted) where you are able to walk through the forest canopy of a suspended walkway. It is definitely worth the effort.
The vegetation in the area is lowland rainforest

Rafflesia Forest Reserve

The Rafflesia Forest Reserve is devoted to the world's largest flower. The rafflesia is a parasite plant that grows hidden within its host, which are the stems of jungle vines, until it busts into bloom. In many respects, this colorful flower is strange and baffling. It blooms as a single flower, which has no roots, no stem, and no leaves as well. This large, magnificent flower is able to grow up to 1m in diameter. The 12 or so species of rafflesias are found only in Borneo and Sumatra. There are several species that are unique to Sabah but their blooming is unpredictable.

The reserve gives us the opportunity to see this floral wonder. The Rafflesia Information Centre, which is located at the entrance of the reserve, has interesting displays and information devoted to the flower. It provides facts and advice about the flower, including where, when, and how to see them. From the center, trails lead into the forest where the flowers can be found. The flowers may be located close to the information centre or they may be deep in the forest. It is all a matter of luck and patience!

Crocker Range

The Crocker Range is the backbone of western Sabah as it divides the western coastal plains from the rest of Sabah. Lying more than 300m above sea level, it is spread over 139,919 hectares of densely forested terrain. It rises from near Tenom in the south and culminates in the north at Mount Kinabalu and Mount Trus Madi. The fertile coastal plain on which KK and other large settlements developed are situated nearly 1500m below the range. Roads crossing the range have made the interior more accessible from coastal areas, thus making it possible for visitors to enjoy the serene tranquility in the rugged mountains. Although logging has taken a toll on some parts of Sabah, Crocker Range still has intact forest and much of it is now preserved as the Crocker Range National Park. Presently, there are visitor facilities within the park and it is also not open for public visits. Those who intend to visit must obtain written permission from the Director of Sabah Parks.

Pulau Layang-Layang

A diver's paradise, Sabah's Layang-Layang is actually a new name for an oceanic atoll once called "Swallow Reefs". Situated approximately 300km northwest of KK, Layang-Layang is a tiny oceanic island surrounded by a coral atoll. It is among the famous Spratlys, which is a collection of about 600 islands, reefs, and atolls strategically located in the South China Sea.

Tunku Abdul Rahman National Park

A group of five almost untouched islands - Pulau Gaya, Pulau Sapi, Pulau Mamutik, Pulau Manukan, and Pulau Sulug - make up the Tunku Abdul Rahman National Park. Located between 3 to 8km from Kota Kinabalu, the islands are a favorite among picnickers, divers, and nature lovers. In order to protect the natural environment with its coral reefs, marine life, and its flora and fauna, the islands were gazetted as a National Park. Only a short boat ride from the city center, they offer some of the best beaches in Borneo with crystal clear waters and a wealth of corals and tropical marine life. Pulau Gaya is the largest island in the park whereas Manukan is the second largest. The latter is also the only island with accommodation facilities.

Kota Kinabalu

As Sabah's capital, Kota Kinabalu (or KK as called by the locals) sits on the edge of the South China Sea overlooking a cluster of coral-fringed islands. One of Asia's fastest growing cities, KK is an interesting blend of European, Malay, and Chinese culture. Recent influx of Filipinos has added extra flavor to the existing cultural blend. KK is a modern city with a number of shopping complexes, and international hotels and restaurants